During the summer of 2010 I will be spending 14 weeks in Central America. The majority of that time will be spent in Quetzaltenango (Xela), Guatemala, studying Spanish and volunteering in local and rural health clinics. I hope to be able to keep up with you all here!

Wednesday, May 19, 2010

A Child´s Treasury of Ways to Kill a Chicken

Dinner was late last night and I didn´t begin homework until 9:30. By the time homework finished, I was too tired to even turn on my iPod. This keeps happening. My ¨reward¨for finishing homework is to lie in bed and listen to Chopin´s Nocturnes before falling asleep. But for the past three nights I´ve been too exhausted for even that. So I fell asleep immediately only to be woken up at 12am, 1am, 2am, 2:30am, 3am, 3:30a, 4am, 5am and 5:30 am at which point I just got up and showered. Our rooster, I hates him. We live across the street from a field which serves as a small dump for our neighborhood, I think I have mentioned this. The dump means lots of strays. And lots of strays mean Mr. Rooster is bothered quite often, and in turn bothers me. Keep in mind that our apartment is concrete tile floors, plaster walls, and very little furniture. The doors are metal, the windows are metal and glass. So every single little noise sounds amplified, especially when said noise is a rooster 2 feet below your bedroom window. I think he´s here for good. When A.´s dad stopped by 3 days ago, I thought it was to pick her up for an outing. Now, he and the chickens seem permanent fixtures. So I will have to rework my sleeping schedule around the rooster. Which means, naps in the afternoon, and accepting that I won´t be able to sleep in on Saturdays. All things considered, it´s only a hardship when I am in bed, passing the time by fantasizing about cooking the bird.

Last night, A. modeled for me her Mayan festival clothes, all handmade of course, and incredibly beautiful. Then, I let her play with my little handheld fan that I bought as a gag gift for MRM and me, and A. wanted to listen to the whir of it, and put it up to her ear, at which point about a third of her long, gorgeous, silky hair got tangled in the fan and ended up in a knot the size of a baseball. It was awful. She takes so much pride in her hair and I was sure that we would have to cut it out. I´ve never seen worse tangles. So, I carried her into the bathroom, sat her on the toilet seat, and perched myself on the lip of the tub, and poured almost my entire bottle of conditioner on her hair and worked it out single strand by single strand. It took over an hour. My arms were aching from the effort. But her locks were still beautiful once it was all said and done.

It´s getting really really hard having someone making all my meals for me, and giving me the largest portions. I am seated at the head of the table, and my plate or bowl is always overflowing, while K.´s portions seem to get smaller and smaller. At each meal I have tried to share mine with her, and she gladly accepts, but I haven´t figured out how to tell her to serve me the same as everyone else. I tried twice before and we just ended up talking at each other. I decided not to take the beach trip this weekend and instead stay home and try to do laundry in the pila and help with more household chores.

Classes are going well. There are only 6 of us enrolled in morning classes currently. 3 other students are traveling and several others attend in the afternoons. 2 are from Canada, the other three are from Iowa, Cali and Oregon. We all have very different backgrounds but are getting along well. After break today it was maestros vs. estudiantes in a game of English-Spanish charades. We tried to come up with really cerebral phrases that would be incredibly difficult to act out, but the maestros kept nailing our submissions over and over and over. I was able to guess my English words fairly quickly, but was only able to guess one of my Spanish translations. We lost, but it was close.

I requested my same teacher for next week. We seem to be finding a rhythm. There is no lesson plan here, they teachers just kind of wing it based on the materials on hand, what level you´re at, and what you´re hoping to get out of it. We haven´t started any ¨Medical Spanish¨yet but that will mainly be vocabulary anyway. At lunch today, Senor Gaucho asked about my skin, and I had to try to explain my autoimmune disease, ideopathic guttate hypomelanosis. Thankfully, melanin and immune system are a pretty straight translation.

I have felt really dumb all week, and am feeling tired of feeling dumb, but today I received a really wonderful email from my friend James, who has recently moved to Africa for missions work, and who is taking language classes as well. He is also a linguist, and for that reason, I take his advice on learning languages even more to heart. Which is basically this: don´t try to master anything. Be a servant. Be a conduit. Immerse yourself in the people and in the life of the place, and the language skills will come. This is opposite of what I have felt like I ought to do, so it´s nice to feel like I have permission to just be, just talk to people and engage them instead of holing up in a Western cafe memorizing vocab.

My family is Catholic. I am going to see if they´ll let me accompany them to church on Sunday. Allegedly, there are 100K - 1M Guatemalans waiting to be christmated in the Orthodox Church, but I haven´t been able to find them.

Oh, I found out recently that World Vision has approved me to visit my Guatemalan sponsor daughter, Lucia, while I am here. However, they want to transport me from Guatemala City, which isn´t the safest place on earth. So I am trying to work out meeting Lucia, whose village is apparantly only accessible by boat, and would appreciate your prayers that that happens.

My feelings about being her change by the hour. I love it. I´m bored. I´m homesick. I´m annoyed. I love it. I know that come August, I will be really really glad I came, but some hours August feels like a lifetime away. Hoping all is well with you in your respective corners.

8 comments:

  1. Love you so much, darling Rachel! I love, too, how honest you are about your ambivalent feelings. I know by August you'll be so sorry to leave, but your life there is harder than I'd expected, what with the all-day and all-night crowing, and the impoverished place, as well as the expected inability to make yourself understood yet--or to understand others. Roosters have blessed our time on Aegina, as well as roosters, crows, and all-nighter dogs in sundry other places in Greece, Japan, and Mexico. Try earplugs to make the sound less piercing. I hope you can see Lucia--named, of course, for light: lux.
    I think the phrase for "the same" is la mismo (or something similar): try that before your food is dished out, and use that universal language of gesture--the only language that ever works for me!
    I love your blogs: I feel as if I'm there with you, experiencing your adventure with you. Thank you! Love you, love you, love you!

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  2. Just like my sister, I love your blogs - they are powerful, from such an honest heart that comforts and fingers that untangle! I echo James, just be the wondrously made conduit and the language will be yours. xo

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  3. Two words: Ear Plugs. We must get you some ear plugs.

    I will praying for your meeting with Lucia. How wonderful it will be ... for both of you!

    LOVE YOU!!

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  4. I agree, we need to ship ear plugs asap! Praying that you will be able to meet Lucia safely. Love and miss you!!

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  5. Buenos Dias, Raquel!
    Do you "hates" the rooster as Gollum hated Samwise Gamgee? I do hope that the earplugs we bought you made it into your backpack after Jan's thorough purging! Hopefully Chanticleer won't be quite as disturbing with earplugs.Or maybe his cries will fade as the sound of a train does with repetition in the night.

    The "lecture" from James was amazing. Such wisdom. I love him and I don't know him well!
    Dad said, (I shared it with him, forgive me James), "Kids these days, are brilliant! How'd they get to be so smart!" Do take his advice to heart. Just be.

    Te echo de menos.
    Estoy tan orgulloso de llamar a mi hija.
    Usted esta' en mis oraciones.
    Mucho amor!,
    Mama'

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  6. I have arrived from Guatemala, and already miss the noises of birds and yes...chickens trying to find the worm hidden under the earth!

    I spent the time at the monastery with the nuns and had a most wonderful time in the serenity of the area....there were no roosters but DUCKS! and all the time they were so excited to see the fish coming out to eat, I believed they wanted to eat them...the ducks I mean. Concerning your visit with Lucia, that should present no problem, let Mother Ines know of your plans ahead of time and she'll help you, if not, we'll think of something else. I'm sure we'll have a plan by the end of July.

    I enjoyed having dinner at Casa de Vino and eating home-made pizza with you and my kids, your friends, it was very relaxing and adventurous on that particular afternoon. Thanks!

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  7. RACH! LOVE to read you writing again--it's been too long. Speaking of which, are you able to get email? If so, which address. Wanted to write you.... Lots of love from Nashville!

    Meg

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  8. Mary and Ellen -- thank you both for your wisdom and love and advice and support. It means so much to me always, and especially over here! Al mismo worked, Ellen!

    Mama, Gail and Coley -- the earplugs might have survived Jans purging if I had not already returned them! Headed to the supermarket later today so see if I can find some.

    Mrs. Myrna -- I SO loved being able to spend time with you here! Especially at the hogar and our wonderful pizza dinner. It was so special to begin my trip with all of you. I hope MRM and I are able to spend some time at the monestery before we leave here.

    Meg, thanks for reading! Email is the same: rachie at gmail dot com!

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